More accessories and wiring

The last step in installing the wiring into the Mini was to add new wiring for :
USB charging outlets

Cigarette lighter outlet

Digital display controller
Wideband O2 sensor controller

Power windows

Central locking controller

I've previously removed all the Toyota Starlet factory wiring that was used for the air-conditioning so I re-used this circuit and fuse for the first four items listed above. This circuit was used as it is only powered when the ignition key is turned to "ON" (not "ACC"), because the wideband controller should not be powered on via an Accessories circuit before the engine is started. Bosch specifically state this in their wideband O2 sensor product info PDF, to prevent thermal shock of the sensor.

The wiring for the display and wideband controllers involved running some power/ground wires down to the centre console and underneath the drivers seat. The USB outlets, cigarette lighter outlet, power window switch wires stopped at the centre console. Note that the central locking controller power supply is a different/constant 12V power source so that it can lock/unlock the doors with the car turned off.

Centre console wiring :

Wiring under drivers seat :

Like the Toyota Starlet power windows, the power source for the Mini power windows was non-fused, and uses two 15Amp (auto-reset) circuit breakers. I'm using the same colour wire to and from the circuit breakers so I used a label maker with some clear heatshrink to label the wires in case I need to change a circuit breaker. The BAT connection is from the ignition, and AUX connection goes to the window switches.

I also had to make a couple of decent ground cables for the engine. I made one ground cable from the body to intake manifold, and another large gauge (4AWG) cable from body to the engine block (for the starter motor).

A last minute addition was an 8-wire Deutsch (waterproof) connector at the front of the engine bay. This allows me to disconnect all the front lights and indicators from the main loom in a single step. In the case that I need to remove the engine, I will not have to also disconnect the wiring to all the lights/indicators also. 

Now that I have all the wiring routes 100% confirmed for the entire car, I made some cable tie mounts to hold the looms around the car. I cut some 30x10mm pieces of 1mm steel and rigged up a quick press jig for my vice. When the vice is closed, it forms a specific shape for the small piece

These pieces were welded onto the car at various locations (engine bay, cabin, boot) to allow me to use cable ties to hold the loom tube in place - as demonstrated in this photo. I ended up needing approx 20 of these throughout the Mini and will weld on some more in the engine bay after the engine is removed.

I also made some taller mounts for the cabin/interior. These were welded to the floorpan and will sit slightly proud of the ~14mm of sound deadener, underlay & carpet that I will be installing.