I currently have a 4 page list of items to complete for the build and for no particular reason, I decided to start assembling the rear subframe.
I documented the bad quality of the body repairs more than a few years ago and I was concerned that the lap joint welds that were done around one of the pair of rear subframe holes in the boot floor would affect the fitting and I was correct. I fitted a set of new bushes on all four corners of the subframe, flipped the body shell upside down on the rotisserie and (tried) to bolt the subframe in place. The repairs to the boot floor were so bad that all four rear holes were not aligned with the trunnions. On the left side, the holes were 3mm out of alignment and on the right side, a whopping 9mm out of alignment. I had no choice but to patch / weld up the holes and redrill them in the correct position.
The ruler is the pic below is in line with the centreline of the original holes. I cut out a small round pieces of 5mm steel, welded the holes up, cut the new holes and ground back the welds.
Rear brake lines were next. The cheapish flaring tool I used to have could produced good flares but it was just really inconsistent in the quality from flare to flare so I upgraded to an Eastwood on-car flaring tool, designed for doing flares on brakes lines whilst still attached to the car. After a long series of test flares (both invert & bubble) this new tool consistently produced very nice clean and even flares. The kit has a removable handle which is perfect for holding the main piece in the vice.
For the rear subframe, I ditched the standard T piece and will be using an adjustable bias valve (Part code MS72) so the front/rear bias can be adjusted once the system is fully plumbed in. The bias valve bracket that I welded (and tapped with a 3/8" UNF hole) to the subframe was positioned specifically to avoid fouling against the handbrake cable. This all meant the usual custom work for the lines from the front of the car to the valve; and valve to radius arms. A pair of lines were also bent up for the radius arms.
From there, the radius arms were filled with lithium grease and bolted onto the subframe and the Hi-Lo suspension kit trial fitted.
I documented the bad quality of the body repairs more than a few years ago and I was concerned that the lap joint welds that were done around one of the pair of rear subframe holes in the boot floor would affect the fitting and I was correct. I fitted a set of new bushes on all four corners of the subframe, flipped the body shell upside down on the rotisserie and (tried) to bolt the subframe in place. The repairs to the boot floor were so bad that all four rear holes were not aligned with the trunnions. On the left side, the holes were 3mm out of alignment and on the right side, a whopping 9mm out of alignment. I had no choice but to patch / weld up the holes and redrill them in the correct position.
The ruler is the pic below is in line with the centreline of the original holes. I cut out a small round pieces of 5mm steel, welded the holes up, cut the new holes and ground back the welds.
Rear brake lines were next. The cheapish flaring tool I used to have could produced good flares but it was just really inconsistent in the quality from flare to flare so I upgraded to an Eastwood on-car flaring tool, designed for doing flares on brakes lines whilst still attached to the car. After a long series of test flares (both invert & bubble) this new tool consistently produced very nice clean and even flares. The kit has a removable handle which is perfect for holding the main piece in the vice.
For the rear subframe, I ditched the standard T piece and will be using an adjustable bias valve (Part code MS72) so the front/rear bias can be adjusted once the system is fully plumbed in. The bias valve bracket that I welded (and tapped with a 3/8" UNF hole) to the subframe was positioned specifically to avoid fouling against the handbrake cable. This all meant the usual custom work for the lines from the front of the car to the valve; and valve to radius arms. A pair of lines were also bent up for the radius arms.
From there, the radius arms were filled with lithium grease and bolted onto the subframe and the Hi-Lo suspension kit trial fitted.
Comments
Post a Comment