Installing a new clutch isn't a hard process but like the timing belt, it's takes time to pull everything off to get to the parts that need changing. I'll start from having the crankshaft exposed and if you are changing the clutch, at any point, it would be a good idea to check or replace the rear main seal.
Rather than getting a new clutch kit, I got the standard clutch rebuilt at a local clutch business and was extremely happy with the job and price. Scott at Auto Clutch in Osborne Park (Perth, W.A.) was very helpful & knowledgeable. I got the flywheel machined, new organic lining fitted to the clutch disc, a new pressure plate and new bearing for $270. Note that the Starlet engines do NOT have a spigot bearing (noramlly fits in the end of the crankshaft). The clamping pressure of the new pressure plate is rated at 2000lb - a ~40% upgrade over the factory ~1400lb pressure plate.
So firstly, put on the backing plate and secure with the single bolt (directly above the crankshaft)
Put the flyweel in place and line up the holes with the bolt holes in the crankshaft.
Apply red Loctite (High-Strength locker) to the bolt threads and tighten in alternate order (12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 2, 8, 4, 10) to torque of 88Nm.
Make sure the clutch disc is fitted with the springs on the outer side, facing the pressure plate.
For the gearbox to be bolted on easily, the centre of the disc has to be in line with the centre of the pressure plate diaphram, like the pic below, and has to held in that position while bolting on the pressure plate. You can line it up by eye, or use a alutch alignment tool.
If using a universal alignment tool, insert the tool into the clutch disc centre (which is under the prssure plate here) and tighten the small outer knob so it holds the clutch disc.
Tighten the large knob so that it centres the two pieces.
Put the pressure plate on the 3 flywheel locating dowels. Don't worry about the gap between the pressure plate and flywheel. Once the bolts are tightened, it will sit flush against the flywheel.
Apply loctite to the six small bolts and tigthen to a torque of 19Nm. Tigthening order of the bolts does not really matter here. Make sure the clutch disc is still centred with the pressure plate.
And that's the new clutch installed.
The clutch lever and bearing also has to be installed. Make sure the pivot bolt and spline are well greased. I use high temperature bearing grease for this and have never had any issues with squeaking afterward.
On the inside of the lever, grease the dip where the lever clips onto the pivot bolt
On the outside of the lever, grease the end "forks"
Clip the bearing onto the lever
Put bearing over the gearbox input spline and clip the lever over the pivot bolt
Lift the gearbox and slide onto the engine and use the 3 large bolts at the top of the bell housing (block to the bell housing) and 4 smaller bolts at the bottom (backing pate to the bell housing).
Rather than getting a new clutch kit, I got the standard clutch rebuilt at a local clutch business and was extremely happy with the job and price. Scott at Auto Clutch in Osborne Park (Perth, W.A.) was very helpful & knowledgeable. I got the flywheel machined, new organic lining fitted to the clutch disc, a new pressure plate and new bearing for $270. Note that the Starlet engines do NOT have a spigot bearing (noramlly fits in the end of the crankshaft). The clamping pressure of the new pressure plate is rated at 2000lb - a ~40% upgrade over the factory ~1400lb pressure plate.
So firstly, put on the backing plate and secure with the single bolt (directly above the crankshaft)
Put the flyweel in place and line up the holes with the bolt holes in the crankshaft.
Apply red Loctite (High-Strength locker) to the bolt threads and tighten in alternate order (12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 2, 8, 4, 10) to torque of 88Nm.
Make sure the clutch disc is fitted with the springs on the outer side, facing the pressure plate.
For the gearbox to be bolted on easily, the centre of the disc has to be in line with the centre of the pressure plate diaphram, like the pic below, and has to held in that position while bolting on the pressure plate. You can line it up by eye, or use a alutch alignment tool.
If using a universal alignment tool, insert the tool into the clutch disc centre (which is under the prssure plate here) and tighten the small outer knob so it holds the clutch disc.
Tighten the large knob so that it centres the two pieces.
Put the pressure plate on the 3 flywheel locating dowels. Don't worry about the gap between the pressure plate and flywheel. Once the bolts are tightened, it will sit flush against the flywheel.
Apply loctite to the six small bolts and tigthen to a torque of 19Nm. Tigthening order of the bolts does not really matter here. Make sure the clutch disc is still centred with the pressure plate.
And that's the new clutch installed.
The clutch lever and bearing also has to be installed. Make sure the pivot bolt and spline are well greased. I use high temperature bearing grease for this and have never had any issues with squeaking afterward.
On the inside of the lever, grease the dip where the lever clips onto the pivot bolt
On the outside of the lever, grease the end "forks"
Clip the bearing onto the lever
Put bearing over the gearbox input spline and clip the lever over the pivot bolt
Lift the gearbox and slide onto the engine and use the 3 large bolts at the top of the bell housing (block to the bell housing) and 4 smaller bolts at the bottom (backing pate to the bell housing).
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