I want to be able to begin modifying the front subframe but the guy who will be doing the rust repairs will need it (not in pieces) to mount the new front valance (which the subframe bolts to) in a couple of weeks so with no shell and no subframe to work on, I'm a little stuck for work to do until then...
I was never completely happy with the original front subframe jig design I made (many moons ago). The upper vertical mount bolts had to be removed for the subframe to be mounted in the jig so I cut the rear section of the jig away and welded some new "arms" which allows the bolts to remain in place so I can take it out of the jig and test fit it in the front cut. You can see the original design of the upper arms here http://mearcatmini.blogspot.com/2009/05/subframe-jig.html.
So not much more to add except I've lifted the engine and trial fitted in into the Mini front cut and the subframe (in the jig), and confirmed how little room there is to play with. How the heck do people fit a 2.0L engine in a Mini if this is how much room you've got with a 1.3L!
The pics do not represent the final location of the engine of course. There will be some cutting, trimming, welding, grinding to do before that :)
With the passenger inner CV and drivers side driveshaft/CV in-situ, it seems that the final driveshaft lengths will be within ~70mm length of each other. I knew the driveshaft lengths were not going to be exactly equal length, but that's pretty good compared to the 220mm difference of the standard Toyota Starlet driveshafts. This pic shows two main things 1) How some of the rear section of the subframe will need to be cut away so the rear of the differential and engine can move to the rear further and 2) Some mods will need to be required to allow the prevent the gear selector (this is for the left-right movement on the gear stick) from fouling against the tower.
I was never completely happy with the original front subframe jig design I made (many moons ago). The upper vertical mount bolts had to be removed for the subframe to be mounted in the jig so I cut the rear section of the jig away and welded some new "arms" which allows the bolts to remain in place so I can take it out of the jig and test fit it in the front cut. You can see the original design of the upper arms here http://mearcatmini.blogspot.com/2009/05/subframe-jig.html.
So not much more to add except I've lifted the engine and trial fitted in into the Mini front cut and the subframe (in the jig), and confirmed how little room there is to play with. How the heck do people fit a 2.0L engine in a Mini if this is how much room you've got with a 1.3L!
The pics do not represent the final location of the engine of course. There will be some cutting, trimming, welding, grinding to do before that :)
With the passenger inner CV and drivers side driveshaft/CV in-situ, it seems that the final driveshaft lengths will be within ~70mm length of each other. I knew the driveshaft lengths were not going to be exactly equal length, but that's pretty good compared to the 220mm difference of the standard Toyota Starlet driveshafts. This pic shows two main things 1) How some of the rear section of the subframe will need to be cut away so the rear of the differential and engine can move to the rear further and 2) Some mods will need to be required to allow the prevent the gear selector (this is for the left-right movement on the gear stick) from fouling against the tower.
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