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Removing bolts with stripped head

I was pulling the rear & side engine mounts off the other night and managed to round off the head on one of the bolts. The engine mount bolts are very tight and takes a breaker bar to crack some of them so a set of pliers or multigrips wasn't going to help. If you haven't actually snapped the head off the bolt, there's no need to use screw/bolt remover products such as Ezy-out, Kwik-out etc.

I just welded a nut on top of the bolt head and used that to nut to undo the bolt. It took a breaker bar to undo this one.

The rounded head (on top of the gearbox)

The nut welded on

On a different note, James (who has already done a 4E-FTE conversion in his Mini http://mearcat.blogspot.com/2009/03/driving-4e-fte-conversion.html) has offered me a layshaft from a Toyota 20V 4AGE engine. In a previous post, a photo shows the left and right Starlet driveshafts are different lengths. A layshaft is an equalising shaft that comes out of the side of the diff to a certain point so that the main driveshaft inserts into the layshaft CV cup instead of directly into the diff. This allows both driveshafts to be the same (or very similar) lengths. A lot of people believe that equal length driveshafts will prevent torque steer under heavy engine load, however it's certainly not the silver bullet that many are looking for to stop torque steer. One of the main reasons for fitting this layshaft is to allow for full suspension travel without the diveshaft hitting other parts of the subframe which could be possible with a longer driveshaft leading directly from the diff output. The layshaft will require a custom bracket to mount the support bearing but I will post photos etc later with this.

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