The front cut has now been completely stripped of all ancillaries, wiring, dash, brakes, suspension, pedal assembly, driveshafts and all that is left is a few bolts to undo and lift the engine out. I now have big ziplock bag full of misc nuts/bolts and have kept all plastic clips for mounting the wiring loom and metal clips used to hold brake & clutch lines. They will be useful for when I refit everything in the Mini and make it look neater.
Below is a pic of the wiring loom. Top section on the loom is from the engine bay (you can see the two large grommets that mount in the firewall) and the bottom section is from the cabin.
Removing the clutch master cylinder & brakes master cylinder/booster is easy. Remove the pedals from the drivers footwell, remove the nuts in the footwell that hold the cylinders in place, undo the clamps that hold the brakes/clutch lines onto the firewall and then remove the line unions from the master cylinders. Once all unions are disconnected, pull the cylinders out.
To remove the driveshafts (didn't take pics of this but it's simple enough) :
Remove the drivehaft nut (30mm) with a breaker bar (you WILL need a breaker bar), the shock absorbers need to be removed (2 large 19m horizontal bolts, 4 small 12mm nuts on top of the strut), then remove the steering arm bolt (this may need a good hammer hit upward to release the joint). Remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper. Remove 2 nuts & 1 bolt from the lower suspension arm and the entire brake assembly. Before lifting the hub off the lower suspension arm, hammer the end of the driveshaft a few times to force the driveshaft inwards slightly (to release the driveshaft from the hub) so that hub may be pulled outwards leaving the outer CV and drive shaft hanging. All this can be done without the need for a jack to hold up the brake disc or lower suspension arm but it can make it a bit easier to get the shock absorber bolts out if it is used. In my case, the hub assembly was not going pull out easily so I used a knife to cut away the inner rubber CV boot and pulled out the entire brake/hub/driveshaft/inner CV in one piece. I placed it all on the workbench and used a hammer to hit the end of the driveshaft (where the driveshaft nut was) to force it out from the hub spline.
Once the driveshaft are out, cut the rubber CV boots off, use LOTS of rags (or degreaser & paint brush) to get rid of the bucketloads of grease. Next is removing the driveshaft from the CV and dealing with the pesky little circlips that hold the two together.
Below is a pic of the wiring loom. Top section on the loom is from the engine bay (you can see the two large grommets that mount in the firewall) and the bottom section is from the cabin.
Removing the clutch master cylinder & brakes master cylinder/booster is easy. Remove the pedals from the drivers footwell, remove the nuts in the footwell that hold the cylinders in place, undo the clamps that hold the brakes/clutch lines onto the firewall and then remove the line unions from the master cylinders. Once all unions are disconnected, pull the cylinders out.
To remove the driveshafts (didn't take pics of this but it's simple enough) :
Remove the drivehaft nut (30mm) with a breaker bar (you WILL need a breaker bar), the shock absorbers need to be removed (2 large 19m horizontal bolts, 4 small 12mm nuts on top of the strut), then remove the steering arm bolt (this may need a good hammer hit upward to release the joint). Remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper. Remove 2 nuts & 1 bolt from the lower suspension arm and the entire brake assembly. Before lifting the hub off the lower suspension arm, hammer the end of the driveshaft a few times to force the driveshaft inwards slightly (to release the driveshaft from the hub) so that hub may be pulled outwards leaving the outer CV and drive shaft hanging. All this can be done without the need for a jack to hold up the brake disc or lower suspension arm but it can make it a bit easier to get the shock absorber bolts out if it is used. In my case, the hub assembly was not going pull out easily so I used a knife to cut away the inner rubber CV boot and pulled out the entire brake/hub/driveshaft/inner CV in one piece. I placed it all on the workbench and used a hammer to hit the end of the driveshaft (where the driveshaft nut was) to force it out from the hub spline.
Once the driveshaft are out, cut the rubber CV boots off, use LOTS of rags (or degreaser & paint brush) to get rid of the bucketloads of grease. Next is removing the driveshaft from the CV and dealing with the pesky little circlips that hold the two together.
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